"Day Tripping to Umm Qais" by Carson Sturgis
I have been living in Amman for just over a month, and I’ve made a point of using my time to explore different parts of the city. From its unique food scene and historical sites to the warmth and hospitality of the people, Amman truly has a lot to offer, and I’ve loved my time here already. That said, I wanted to leave Amman and explore a part of Jordan that many Western tourists bypass. I decided to take a daytrip to Umm Qais in northern Jordan.
Umm Qais is a historic Roman city sitting on the northern border with Jordan, Israel, and the Golan Heights overlooking the Sea of Galilee.
My day started early as I left my home in Khalda around 8:30 and took an Uber to the Tarborbour bus station in the north of Amman. I paid 2.2 dinar and boarded the 9:30 bus to Irbid. The ride to Irbid highlighted the stark difference in landscape between northern Jordan and Amman. Lush green pastures lined with olive trees followed by rolling hills showcased the beauty of northern Jordan, compared to the desert environment of the south.
After arriving in Irbid after a two hour ride, I spent my time walking around the area before buying some tea and ordering a taxi to Umm Qais. The taxi drive from downtown Irbid to the ruins at Umm Qais was around 45 minutes and offered beautiful views of the countryside.
In Umm Qais, I had lunch at Yamama Restaurant, which overlooked the valley providing stunning views. Afterward, I explored the ruins, taking in the scenery, exploring ancient buildings, and learning about the history and purpose of this ancient city.
When it was time to head back, I asked a local if he could drive me back to Irbid. These small experiences, such as a 45-minute taxi ride, are memories I’ll forever remember. For a brief moment, I felt as though I was seeing Jordan through his eyes, even if it was for a short period of time.
Once back at the Irbid bus station, I paid another 2.2 dinar for my return ticket to Amman. On the ride back, I watched the sunset set behind the rolling green hills of northern Jordan. Umm Qais is an easy and worthwhile day trip for students looking to step outside Amman and experience the diversity Jordan has to offer.
Carson is a student at George Washington University, and studying abroad in Spring 2026 on Amideast’s Area and Arabic Language Study Program in Amman, Jordan.
